Hdmi optical isolator
I have 3 new 8' rods, but I still need to figure out how to drive them into the ground, and what type of cable/wire to use to connect them to eachother, and how to connect to the box. and I can beef up my home ground, which I'm currently researching. So if I do use component or fibre optic, any surge would have to find the next path of least resistance, wherever that might be. It won't blow though, since it wouldn't be taking it through any HDMI boards. The surge could still 'sniff' out the coax via the STB, but of course I could care less if the STB takes the surge. But all this would do is isolate the coax from my receiver. The ONLY way I think I can truly isolate the coax, is with using either component cables or fibre optic.
#HDMI OPTICAL ISOLATOR TV#
If instead of running the STB HDMI into my receiver, I ran it into my TV, if theory proves true, then my TV would suffer the surge. I'm told that electricity, like water, uses the path of least resistance, and that is very often times a source of coax, as it is a great grounding source. I agree with your second point too, or at least I did before this 'theory' of coax being the easiest source of grounding. And, an AC surge that is trying to find ground will still 'see' the coax as an easy route out the HDMI. But I don't believe this is isolating anything. I'd still like to try one to see if the service works. Also Charter cable tech told me that the surge protectors that have coax in/out have issues with the STB/cable, as their service requires two way communication and they interfere with that. They are not strong enough to blow/trip, but the HDMI boards are fragile enough to blow.
#HDMI OPTICAL ISOLATOR UPGRADE#
You can replace the end cap transmitter/receiver set if they blow up, or you want to upgrade to a higher HDMI standard.Ĭlick to expand.Well, from what I've been told, the ups and surge protectors are pretty worthless as far as protecting devices, especially lower voltage surges. But it works just dandy as an isolator as well, as a by-the-way thing. It was designed for very long cable lengths without data loss, not electrical isolation. Best of all, the primary cost is in the fiber optic itself, and the end caps detach. A purely fiber optic cable uses USB-powered or port-powered transmitter and receiver dongles to create a bi-directional HDMI optical signal that can't carry an electrical current. I only needed 15 feet and bought a then-minimum 40 ft length. Fortunately, you can simply keep the excess spooled with no loss in quality and run out as much as you need. This is probably the shortest length you'll find. Each event cost quite a bit to fix, even with warranty assistance, so it was worth it to address this way.Īn example is here: They are designed for very long runs so they don't come in interconnect lengths. I had a problem with a single HDMI connection blowing up both the receiver and display HDMI modules on three separate occasions but using a pure optical connector has apparently solved this. There are less expensive hybrid optical/wire cables (optical for data, copper wire for control and power) but this won't help you. If you want to completely isolate the cable box and the receiver, you can consider a pure fiber optic HDMI cable, but they're not at all cheap.